Rio Grande Metal Clay

July 29, 2017
Sand Casting Workshop The

Step 1: Pink eraser with design drawn on it

STEP 1.

Start by creating a simple press mold. We used a standard rubber eraser; other possible materials include linoleum, acrylic, leather or polymer clay. Each of these materials will produce its own slightly different effect on your clay. A press mold (so called because the model material is pressed into the mold) is versatile in so many ways; our mold, being rubber, will last practically forever... and it's great for producing multiples, too.

STEP 2.

Use a small carving chisel or craft knife to carve your design into the eraser (or other mold material). Make sample pressings as you work to see how your design will look. Adjust as needed until you're satisfied with the design. If you go too far and have to start over, simply turn the eraser and begin again in a smooth area.

Step 2: Design carved-out of the pink eraserNote: Even after using your mold, it's never too late to make additional design adjustments or alterations in the eraser; press molds offer so much potential for creative freedom!

STEP 3.

Once your mold is ready, lubricate it with a drop of olive oil. In the palm of your hand, roll a small pinch of silver PMC® into a ball and set it in the center of your carved mold.

STEP 4.

Press the clay into your mold using a flat, smooth tool such as a craft stick, popsicle stick or plastic knife blade (we used one of those flat wood spoons you get with ice cream cups—such fun re-purposing things into tools, isn't it?).

Option: To put your mark indelibly on your design, use your thumb to press the clay, and leave your thumbprint to be fired into the piece, forever marking the back of your design!

STEP 5.

Trim and tidy the edges of your design. If necessary, use abrasive paper to smooth away unwanted marks or textures.

Step 3: PMC rolled into a small ball and set on top of pink eraserSTEP 6.

Fire the PMC® according to the manufacturer's instructions. Because we used PMC3™, the design can be fired with any jeweler's torch—even a simple butane torch. Bring the piece to a bright-red color and hold for about two minutes.

STEP 7.

In one version, we used a split-style ring shank.

STEP 8.

In another version, we used a length of 6-ga. half-round sterling silver wire.

STEP 9.

Flux both components (the shank and the design element) and be sure that the parts are properly lined up. Set solder chips on all the points of contact, and heat until the solder flows.

Step 4: PMC pressed ontp pink eraser with a small flat spoonSTEP 10.

Patina the ring as desired with liver of sulfur, then finish and polish. Beautiful!

VARIATION IDEAS:

  • Select a finished band and sand a flat spot onto which you can solder your signature design element.
  • Solder your design element onto a length of square wire.
  • Shape a length of half-round wire into a 'U' and solder your design element onto its ends.
  • Press the wet clay of your design around your finger to give it a curve, then solder the ends of your ring shank onto the edges of the design element.
  • Use a leaf to texture the design element and carve a ring shank from flattened sterling wire by filing.

Step 5: PMC edges being cleaned up on abrasive paper Step 6: PMC fired piece Step 7: PMC fired piece next to split ring shank Step 8: PMC fired piece next to closed ring shank

Source: marketing.riogrande.com
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